Growing peppers from seed

Feb 02, 2012

by Georgina Bailey-Wicher, Lanark County Master Gardeners

Capsicum annuum, a member of the Solanaceae family, originated in Central and South America and was brought back to Europe by Columbus; the Spanish and Portuguese introduced peppers to other parts of the world. They have become a very popular part of our diets, adding vibrant colour and welcomed flavour to countless dishes. Peppers, especially the red varieties, also provide substantial amounts of vitamins A and C. Hot varieties (chili and cayenne peppers) are normally used as a pungent flavouring while milder varieties (sweet peppers) have a very pleasant, slightly sweet flavour and are often used raw in salads.

Why not start pepper plants from seed? Whether you love the hottest of hots or the biggest sweets, you will be surprised at the varieties available at seed racks, in catalogs, and on online websites. At the end of the season, while enjoying the ripened fruits, you will have the satisfaction of knowing you grew them yourself from seed to harvest.

Peppers must be started indoors 10-12 weeks prior to the last frost. Soaking pepper seeds speeds germination so try a two to eight hour soak before planting. A solution of hydrogen peroxide (one to two teaspoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide/cup of warm water) or weak chamomile tea will help break down the seed coat and disinfect the seed. You can sow your seeds into individual pots but managing moisture levels is easier in a seed starting tray or clear plastic food containers Sow half an inch apart in an inch or two of barely moist, sterilized potting mix. Lightly cover the seeds, or press them down onto the surface of the mix. They are heat-loving plants so ensure that the daytime temperature is maintained above 21C (70F) until the seed has germinated. If possible, lower the night temperature to about 17C (62F). When you see the first sign of sprouting, put your trays under lights. Grow lights are not necessary as inexpensive cool fluorescent shop lights will work fine. The lights should be as close to the developing seedlings as possible.

Transplant your seedlings into 2-4” pots when they develop two pairs of true leaves. Handle gently, planting them a little lower than they were growing in the seed-starting tray. Bottom watering is best now to prevent damping off. Adding weak chamomile tea or hydrogen peroxide to the water is also useful. Harden off your plants before planting them outdoors after the last expected frost.

Prior to setting them out work some lime into the garden to provide calcium and adjust the soil pH to 6.0-6.5. When planting, place them 30-45 cm (12-18”) apart and water well. After plants are well established, apply a mulch to conserve soil moisture and help suppress weed growth. Once fruits have begun to set, an additional side-dressing of 12-12-12 or other high nitrogen fertilizer will promote greater plant productivity.

All your gardening questions can be submitted and answered on our website at www.lanarkmastergardeners.mgoi.ca